Wednesday, July 27, 2005
Stripping the Sealer
It seems only fitting that a PRS style clone should have a PRS style finish. This means a deep, iridescent finish that seems to glow from within. Ok, perhaps a bit ambitious for a first project. And perhaps a bit unrealistic considering the quality of the maple top. In any case, I needed to get to the raw maple under that sealed finish.
After some research I decided on CitrusStrip which seemed less intimidating that some of the industrial-strength and highly toxic strippers out there. I got my supplies together and masked off some workspace with newspaper.
There are several things I learned soon afterward.
The stripping approach a failure I decided to get busy with some sand paper. More learning followed.
About two weekends after opening the box I finally had what would have to pass for bare wood. I would have stopped after sanding just the top but I ended up sanding through the sealer on the side so I just stripped off all of the sealer.
After all that work I was pleased to see some good flaming and that nice maple iridescence (which doesn't show in the pictures).
After some research I decided on CitrusStrip which seemed less intimidating that some of the industrial-strength and highly toxic strippers out there. I got my supplies together and masked off some workspace with newspaper.
There are several things I learned soon afterward.
- Strippers lift ink from newsprint very easily which doesn't so much protect an area as stain it. I made a second attempt by taping some plastic garbage bags to an outdoor table. Much better.
- Saga uses the most durable sealer known to man. After two applications of CitrusStrip there didn't seem to be any sign that the sealer would be leaving the wood any time soon.
- CitrusStrip may be more gentle than other strippers but it still burns like acid when it leaps over your glove onto your wrist. Soap and water works better than blowing on it going "Ow, ow, ow!".
The stripping approach a failure I decided to get busy with some sand paper. More learning followed.
- A carved-top body is not a good candidate for using a sanding block. I sanded through to the wood quickly in some areas and had to avoid them while sanding the rest of the top.
- Maple veneer is very thin. I came very close to sanding through the maple top when scrubbing off all of that sealer. The edges are particularly vulnerable.
About two weekends after opening the box I finally had what would have to pass for bare wood. I would have stopped after sanding just the top but I ended up sanding through the sealer on the side so I just stripped off all of the sealer.
After all that work I was pleased to see some good flaming and that nice maple iridescence (which doesn't show in the pictures).